Pregnancy Care In bitches
So your bitch is expecting pups?
Whether this was an accident or a planned mating she will need extra care during her pregnancy.The normal length of pregnancy in dogs is 63-65 days from the last mating date. Most bitches will have begun mammary enlargement at about 35 days, however this and tummy swelling is most rapid in the last 2 to 3 weeks of pregnancy. False pregnancy are very common in bitches with some bitches putting on weight, having mammary enlargement and even producing milk even though she is not pregnant. If you are unsure whether she is pregnant, a gental palpation of the tummy by a vet after 3 weeks can confirm the precences of the pups. If it is a false pregnancy it will usually resolve itself naturally between 60-70 days or you can give her hormone tablets to stopthe behaviour.
During pregnancy owner should ensure:
1. Vaccination: Make sure her vaccination for distemper, parvovirus and hepetisis is up to date as this will ensure she passes on some immunity to the pups. This will give them some resistence to these diseases until they are old enough to be vacinated themselves.
2. Feeding: Her appetite will increaase dramactically especially in the last three weeks of pregnancy. You may need to feed her 2-3 times a day because late in pregnancy there isn't room in her stomach for a large meal. Ensure the diet is high in protein, vitamins and energy by supplementing if required. Also taper off exercise as whelping (labour in dogs) approaches. Calcium supplement in the last week of pregnancy and the first couple of weeks of feeding is also very important.
3. Worming: Bitches pass on to their pups throught he placenta and milk, there fore it is important to worm regularly against roundworms, hookworms, and tapeworms. As a guide, worm your bitch two weeks before whelping and again two weeks after. Continue to give heartworm prevention as normal.
4. Whelping Area: A clean, dry, warm and quiet area is required. Bedding should be changed daily although the bitch will clean up most of the puppies mess herself in the first two weeks. Be aware that by about 3 weeks the pups are very mobile and the area will need to be cleaned every day.
5. Bathing: Dip or bath her for fleas or apply frontline before whelping if possible. Longhaired dogs should also be clipped around the backend and abdomen.
Jump No More
Special Dog and Puppy Training Leash a {text-decoration:none} Jump No More Puppy training leash No more paw prints on your clothes! The "Jump No More" Puppy Training Leash keeps your puppyies paws off you. When Sassy starts to jump on Lindy she can slide the spring loaded rigid cylinder down the tight leash to Sassy's collar preventing her from jumping upward. The cylinder increases Lindy's reach by 18" giving her more control over Sassy's actions. The rigid cylinder in conjunction with a firm "No Jump" and before long Sassy has the right idea.When Lindy releases the cylinder the patented spring action returns the cylinder to it original position giving Sassy the same freedom as a typical nylon leash. For best results use with a snug fitting collar, not with a choke chain. The "Jump No More" is also useful when teaching your puppy to heel, without resorting to a choke chain and yanking your puppy around. Here we see Amanda holding the "Jump No More? and aiming it behind her, with Sassy's tendency to pull forward the "Jump No More" cylinder puts her in perfect heel position. Again in conjunction with verbal praise (nice walk good heel) it won't be long before Sassy knows where to walk. The cylinder also gives you more leverage in case your puppy tries to run (18, of rigid leverage vs. 4" of webbing ). You can see that Amanda has more leverage than with a typical nylon leash. Extremely versatile the "Jump No More"™ Puppy Training Leash can be used to give you more control over your puppyies action or it gives your puppy the same freedom as a typical nylon leash. For best results use with a snug fitting collar, not as effective with a choke chain.